Wednesday, July 26, 2006

Tire, straight to the traditional Turkey



This is the first time I step on turkish lands and honestly, it has caused an important feeling on myself. Let's forget the touristic Turkey, with sandy beaches, transparent waters and done up for 'the rich tourist'. Instead let's get deep into the turkish lifestyle and let's gonna spend some days in some traditional cities, such as Ozdere or Tire. Tire is a small city, with a population of less than 50.000 people.

It is a very conservative, muslim town. The first cultural shock was when girls of our group were asked by our turkish friends to wear moderate clothes, nothing of low-cut shirts or mini-skirts. It is not banned, but it respects the local dress-style. Actually, the superiority of men, at women's detriment, it is still imposed at this town. Women wear mostly shawl, only a few of them work, they are prohibited to go to bars, which are men-exclusive. Previous agreement with the owner of a very centrally situated bar, we got into one of these bars with the girls of our group. We could check the complains of some old men, but that was all... In these bars men smoke water-pipes, drink a turkish coffee or thee, or just look what is going on outside. If you try to find accomodation with a large group of people in a public institution (such as the University), be ready to be separated in different building boys and girls, with the impossibility to adventure incursion at women's building, which is surveilled...

At this city, as in many others around, the most ancient jobs can still be contemplated: horseshoe-maker, carpet and handmade gift makers and specially it results relatively easy to find a barber! Yes, they are practically extinguished in Western-Europe, but in Turkey is pretty easy to find them. Some of us got a raze-shave. Wow! How much would you pay for a delicate hand shave, included face creams, perfumes, hairbrush, taking away ugly face hairs, tidy the neck hair contour, face massage and if you are lucky, as I was, shoulder and arms massage simultaneously by three persons? Furthermore, turkish coffee and cigarette included. Well, I'd probably pay around 10 euros. We just paid 2.5 TYL (1.2 euros) !!!

Turkish bazar are like our street markets. However they are specially good concerning spices, fruits and vegetables. Prices result derisory for western-europe citizens. For example, for a few saffron threads we'd pay around 1 euro. In Tire we got for the same price natural saffron enough for cooking for at least two years. A kilo of excellent quality apricots or cherries cost also 1 euro. And what to say about items of clothes... Markets are, moreover, popular and very big for the town size. Everything is negotiable not only in markets, but at every regular shop. At the moment that shopkeepers notice you are foreigner they might try to benefit by increasing the price of the item. A friend of mine paid 1.5 TYL for a half-liter EFES bier in a normal shop. Three minutes later I had to pay 2.5 TYL for the same bier in the same place. Worth anyway!

In general people results to be very cordial. The Tire major welcomed us in his office and asked us about our opinion of what could be improved in the city. Local people use to look at you as if you were a sort of alien. Don't take it badly, since they are not used to see people like us. It is also remarkable the amount of inhabited buildings which are not completely finished, or those which only the framework is build up! The lack of money seems to be the main reason, but a tax trick seems also to be behind this. Traffic is wild, no rules, no clear traffic signs, people loves tooting horns all around...

Turkish celebrate boys circumcision in style. The boy, dressed with traditional clothes, is driven through the city with half of his body off the window, while everybody waves and toot car-horns. A food-music party follows this ritual. Turkish love natural yogurth in every meal. Don't miss Ayran, a sort of salty milk, which however is healthy and particularly I found pleasant.

If it is the first time you get into a muslim country, you'll be astonished by the imam chants at every mosque. They do it five times per day during a few minutes and the chant can be listened all around the neighbourhood. Specially charming seems to hear it at 5:00 AM, when there are no other background noises, from the top of a Tire hill, with the echo of all different chants. Really astonishing and beauty. Maybe those who live next to a mosque do not share this opinion...

Don't waste your time looking for a bowl water, meaning that place where you sit down, maybe read the journal or smoke a cigarette and has as objective defecate. Usually you'll come across a hole and a water jug, which is supposed to be used to clean your bottom. With what? Guess it... A final curiosity of this peculiar city: old men play also a game, which combines features of marbles and 'petanca' game, and supposed to have the origen in Spain.

My opinion is that nothing can result charmer than spend a few days under real turkish life. You'll get a strong impression of many things, you may have the feeling of going back 30 years back on time, but you may love it and will help you to appreciate all that you possess.

1 comment:

Anonymous said...

después de Niza. Gracias

 
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